Saturday, June 27, 2015

Menjangan Island: Underwater Heaven Just a Step Away from Paradise Island


Sang Hyang Ganesha stood on the verge of the Menjangan Island, viewed from Temple Point diving site. Ganesha is a Hindu God of wisdom, knowledge and new beginnings, depicted with four arms and elephant head.  

Menjangan Island is located north-west of the famous paradise island, Bali. Way less crowded than Bali, the small island offers breathtaking well-preserved underwater view. Even if you don't know how to swim, you won't be able to resist the charm of clear shallow water and bright corals.

Don't be too surprised to see a herd of wild deer swimming across 1,2 miles distance to find sanctuary in the uninhabited island. Hence, the island is called "Pulau Menjangan" (pulau = island; menjangan = deer). The only man-made structures on the island are  the 8 Hindu temples, called Pura or Pure in local language, where several Hindu monks stay.

The name "Menjangan" derived from these swimmer creature with antlers.
You can dock to the island, enjoy the white sandy beach and off for a trekking experience to observe the deer on the savanna, and also various species of birds. Another way of touring the island is through a religious trip, which the Balinese Hindu called Tirta Yatra (tirta = water; yatra = pilgrimage). The pilgrimage covers eight Hindu temples with a hint of Buddhism, which includes:
  1. Pura Segara Giri Darma Kencana  
  2. Pura Taman / Beji
  3. Pesraman Agung Brahma Ireng / Ratu Patih Keboiwa 
  4. Pagoda Agung Dewi Kwan Im 
  5. Pendopo Ida Bhatara Dalem Gajah Mada / Hyang Wisnu Murti
  6. Pura Sang Hyang Siwa Pasupati
  7. Pelinggih Ida Bhatara Lingsir Watu Renggong
  8. Pelinggih Sang Hyang Ganesha

But it doesn't matter if you choose not to step on the the island at all, and just spend the whole day (or two) on the water. After all, this place is actually the first iconic diving spot in Bali. Back in 1978, the Indonesian Navy sponsored a get-together of Indonesia’s main diving clubs, which led to the establishment of Menjangan as the premier international dive spot. 

Menjangan is known as the best wall diving spot in Bali. The island is surrounded by coral reef and characterized by deep drop offs of approximately 60 meters with complex rock formations. Large and small underwater caves are festooned with sponge and soft corals, inhabited by large groupers, moray eels,young snappers, batfish, and puffer fish. 



The sea beds are also rich in large barrel sponges and enormous vibrant sea fans. Given the depth, the moderate flow of currents and its protection from strong winds, it is also common to see tuna, shoals of jack-fish, clown fish, angelfish, sea turtles, and also sharks! Don't worry though, there is no report of any incident involving shark in the area. Sharks are indicators of a healthy marine ecosystem.




Here are some of the spectacular diving or snorkeling spots around Menjangan Island:

Post I
Here is the main warden station with jetty, one of only three points where you can actually get ashore Menjangan Island. The area has a sandy bottom sloping from 16-18 meters down into the deep, an interesting spot for snorkeling. Lots of small fish dwell around the corals, and occasionally Manta Ray or sea eel emerges from the sand floor.

Cave Point
The spot is a very scenic wall, going in and out, with steep sided gullies and small caves. The wall runs deep on this side of the island. Barracuda, surgeons, snapper, grouper are usually hiding in the many crevasses an over hangs. On rainy season, Manta Rays and sharks may also pass by. This is also a great snorkeling spot to enjoy the vibrant corals at the edge of the drop off.


Post II
This is the most popular spot for snorkeling trips, which also offers a short jetty to drop off by the beach. The beach is a small exposed bay that literally slices a narrow chunk out of the wall that dominates this side of the island. You can walk in and swim through the gully along the walls, to a very steep drop off.

Bat Cave
"Quick, to the Bat Cave!" That's what Batman might have said if he ever visit Menjangan Island. Inside the above water caves running along the wall, hundreds of bats sleep in. The Bat Cave which can only be reached from under water offers a shear drop off with some hairy drift diving when the current is running. Though it is possible to start here, most divers start at Post II and drifting round the island. This place is a good spot to look for sharks and other big fish.

Temple Point
Temple Point starts at the feet of a huge Ganesha statue on top a cliff. With the depth of 5-30 meters and mild current, you can enjoy the sight of big sea fan (gorgonian) along with scorpion fish and frog fish. If you are lucky, you can also spot whale sharks around.


Coral Garden
As the name suggest, the beautiful coral garden lies at the depth of 5 - 20 meters. Various hard and soft coral blocks are home of the flat worms, crustaceans, anemones, moray eels, scorpion fish, and lion fish. Typical coral reef fish also includes clown fish, emperor fish, glass fish, and banner fish. Larger sea creatures like tuna, stingrays, sharks, and sea turtles might also passed by.

Anchor Wreck
The ship wreck can be found at the depth of 45 meters. It was an old wooden Dutch ship, sunk during the colonial era while transporting slaves to Batavia (now Jakarta). The ship also brought ceramics and glass cargo. Now, it sits quietly on the sea floor and colonized by soft coral. Sea turtles and sharks occasionally pops out from the wreck!



Eel Garden
Large colony of eels dwells on the western point of Menjangan, in a shallow diving area with some dazzling white sand. The dive starts from a 40 meters wall decorated with beautiful sea fans, topped off with the reef to a stretch of white sand.


Almost all of the diving spot except the Eel Garden are suitable for beginner level diver. At several spots, snorkeling will give the taste of diving due to the clear water with the visibility up to 30 meters.  

There is absolutely no shops, restaurant, or lodging options on Menjangan Island itself. But with Bali, the tourism capital, located just a step away, you can travel with such convenience. Just bring yourself! Diving or snorkeling gears, as well as other supplies needed can be prepared before boarding the boat from mainland Bali ports of Banyu Wedang or Labuhan Lalang.


Getting there...

Map of Indonesia, that's Bali Province highlighted in red. 
There is no available accommodation on the Menjangan Island, and there won't be any as the island is a part of the West Bali National Park Conservation Area. I haven't heard of beach camping option on the island either, since electricity is available solely for the purpose of religious activities at the temples.

Nearest hotels and other accommodations can be found on the north western coast of Bali, near the West Bali National park and the Pemuteran area. Two of the most popular establishments are The M*njangan and M*mpi Menjangan Resort. Plenty of homestay options are available in the Pemuteran area.

It is really far from Bali's Ngurah Rai Airport (DPS), so please make sure that you arrange airport pick-up & drop-off service if you choose to stay in north-western coast of Bali. It is about 150 km away from Kuta area, and it took around 3 hours drive.

The main option to get to Menjangan Island is using a local boat run by the West Bali National Park from a small harbor called Labuhan Lalang. You can also take boats from the small jetty in Banyuwedang Bay. Diving and snorkeling gears are available for rents at these harbor (US$ 7 for snorkeling gears and US$ 20 for diving gears). Last time I went, they haven't sell disposable underwater camera, so please prepare your own waterproof device. You may also need to pack your lunch from the restaurant, before boarding the boat.

Most hotels in north-western coast of Bali would provide Menjangan diving / snorkeling tour services. You can also arrange the tour package with local travel agents, which usually costs about US$140 (including car transfers, boat trip, guide, and lunch). You can also contact the National Park

West Bali National Park
Phone: +62 365 61060 | Email: tnbb@telkom.net
Website: www.tnbalibarat.com (seems not available for the time being, though)

Alternatively you can arrange the trip to Menjangan as a Bali round-trip experience, hiring a car and full-time driver/guide service for a few days. Ask for a pick-up at the airport (or anywhere in Kuta-Seminyak-Nusa Dua area) in the morning, and take the route up north via Denpasar - Sanur Tampaksiring - Batur Lake - Kintamani - Lovina Beach. It is a very scenic route, but you can also drop by at several tourist attraction before spending the night at a lodging option at Lovina area (the option to tip a guide at each tourist attraction is neat enough when you speak English).

For the trip back to the airport (or Kuta-Seminyak-Nusa Dua area) later, take another route via Singaraja - Beratan Lake - Bedugul - Tanah Lot. Well, of course you can switch the route another way around. The point is to go around as much place as conveniently possible.

Lovina is famous for its dolphins, which show up early at the crack of dawn. Dolphin watching is a common activity, offered by local small boat owners. From Lovina to Banyu Wedang Bay, it would took 55 km drive of about an hour. It is best to board the boat at around 8 or 9 AM.

I do have a particular name to recommend as snorkeling/diving guide in Menjangan, Bli Dika (Phone: +62 812 3833 0487). He will wait and set the preparation at Banyu Wedang Bay, before going underwater Menjangan. Ask his advice for details of your trip and requirements, and book in advance because he is so busy ^_^ Once underwater, ask him for a ring bubble performance!

The boat trip to Menjangan cost about US$ 55, which can accommodate up to 8 persons + gears. Normally, the boat ride to the first diving spot around Menjangan Island only takes 30-40 minutes. Admission fee to enter the National Park area is charged at US$ 2 per person, to be paid before boarding. Your packed lunch can be enjoyed in between diving sessions, which supposed to end before sunset.

I'd say all those efforts and money spent really worth well! The only pain left would probably be sunburn scars...          


Word has it that...

  • Being in the tropical climate region, you can plunge in Menjangan water at any time of the year. However, it is best to avoid the rain on monsoon. So, the best time to visit is during the dry season between April to November. Unless you specifically want to do shark spotting that is!
  • There is another diving site called Menjangan Island in Karimun Jawa, Central Java Province. Well actually there are two, Menjangan Kecil and Menjangan Besar. But, the one in Bali really earned its title as a premier international diving spot. Well preserved and well managed.