Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Borobudur: a Masterpiece of Human Creative Genius


Borobudur is an ancient Buddhist stone temple (candi in Indonesian terms), located in Magelang, Central Java Province. The grand step pyramid structure rises 35 meters high, on a 123 x 123 meters base platform. It was built on the 8th century (AD/CE) using two million blocks of volcanic stones (approximately 55,000 cubic meters) without mortar.

However, it has withstand the test of time. It has survived from stormy rain showers, volcanic eruptions, and even bombs from terrorist attack back in 1985.

Since the original architect, Gunadharma, built the temple during the reign of Sailendra Dynasty, it has undergone several restorations projects. Hidden under the deep forest, covered with volcanic ashes, and abandoned for few centuries, Borobudur was re-discovered during the colonial era in 1814. The British Governor General, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, was the one who called it Borobudur in his official report. Restoration efforts was continued during the Dutch colonial era. However, massive works only took place long after Indonesia gain independence, and "Save Borobudur" campaign was launched in 1968 with the support of UNESCO. After the US$ 7 million renovation was completed, UNESCO listed Borobudur as a World Heritage Site in 1991.


After the eruption of Mount Merapi in 2010, rehabilitation efforts were made to restore the drainage system, which had been clogged by slurry after the rain. Volunteers from all across the world also participated to clean up Borobudur from volcanic ash. And again, in 2014 a nearby Mount Kelud erupted. Borobudur were then closed for visitor for about 2 weeks, to dust-off the volcanic ash.

Rosemarie (65), a volunteer from New Zealand, dusting off volcanic ash from  Mount Kelud Eruption affecting Borobudur. Magelang, Central Java Province - February 17, 2014. Photo credit: Antara.

Now, we can visit and conduct the temple pilgrimage comfortably. Enter through the eastern gate, and walk from the first level in a clockwise direction to observe the story beautifully carved on the relief panels. Follow through the extensive system of stairways and corridors, ascending to the the three level which symbolizes Buddhist cosmology, Kamadhatu (world with desires) - Rupadhatu (materialistic world) - Arupadhatu (non-materialistic world).


At the Kamadhatu level, the 160 reliefs depict scenes of Karmawibhangga Sutra, the law of cause and effect, illustrating the human behavior of desire.


At the Rupadhatu level, the 1,300 reliefs depict scenes from Sanskrit manuscripts of Lalitawistara (story of Prince Siddharta and birth of Buddha), Jataka-Awadana (stories of Buddha's previous life and other legendary persons), and Gandhawyuha (Sudhana's search of the ultimate truth). We can also observe Buddha statues carved in five different hand positions, representing Aksobhya (east bound - calling the earth to witness), Ratnasambhawa (south bound - benevolence), Amitabha (west bound - concentration and meditation), Amoghasiddi (north bound - courage), and Vairochana (zenith - reasoning and virtue).



At the Arupadhatu level, Buddha Dharmachakra Vairochana statues are seated inside perforated stupas on three circular platforms. The first circular platform has 32 stupas, 24 on the second, and 16 on the third, which adds up to 72 in total. A main dome is located at the center of the top platform.

2011 Vesak celebration at Borobudur attended by thousands.
Magelang, Central Java Province - May 17, 2011.  Photo credit: viva.co.id 
Once a year, during the full moon in May or June, Buddhists in Indonesia celebrate Vesak at the grand temple of Borobudur. It is a religious holiday commemorating the birth, death, and the enlightenment of Buddha.



From afar, a majestic view inspires a very popular wall decoration. Early at dawn, Borobudur slowly shows its silhouette floating above the clouds. Take a front row seat for the breathtaking scene, from a nearby spot called Borobudur Nirwana Sunrise. Just drive and go for a short hiking trip before sunrise to Punthuk Setumbu, a hill located 5 km from Borobudur. Trust me, it's worth the effort of waking up really early in the morning (just hope for a clear sky though). April to September would be the most convenient time to avoid monsoon, because you don't want the rain to get in your way... Afterwards, you can go downhill, grab a breakfast, then wait at Borobudur admission gate which opens daily at 6 AM.

That being said, the best time to visit Borobudur is in the morning to catch sunrise. Of course, that is debatable especially when a night festival is held on certain occasion. But hey, Affandi (1907-1990), the Indonesian legendary painter, chose to frame the morning view of Borobudur on his canvas!

"Borobudur in the Morning" by Affandi, 1983.


Getting there...

Map of Indonesia, that's Central Java Province highlighted in red.

Various lodging options are available in the nearest city of  Jogja and Solo, or even in Magelang. There is also the M*nohara Hotel within the Borobudur complex, and few others nearby. Both Jogja's Adisucipto Airport (JOG) and Solo's Adisumarmo Airport (SOC) scheduled direct international flights to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Flights from/to Jakarta are scheduled several times a day, every day.  

Most hotels in Jogja, Solo, and Magelang would provide Borobudur tour services. You can also arrange the tour with local travel agents.

A more flexible option is to rent a car, with or without driver. Car rents are very affordable, with little paperwork required. Browse online for car rental services, and make the reservation in advance. You can hire a tour guide speaking the language you understand once you have arrived on site.

Admission fee is IDR 12.500 (child) / IDR 30.000 (adult) for Indonesian citizen; or USD 10 (child) / USD 20 (adult) for foreign citizen. Special package options are available if you also want to visit Prambanan and Ratu Boko in the same day. Check out their web sites for updates.

Address:
Jl. Badrawati, Kecamatan Borobudur, Kabupaten Magelang
Provinsi Jawa Tengah, INDONESIA
-7.607875, 110.203717

Phone: +62 274 496 402 | Email: info@borobudurpark.co.id 

Website: www.borobudurpark.co.id


Word has it that...

  • Borobudur is one of the Seven Wonders of the World.
  • Borobudur is listed by UNESCO under Cultural criteria "to represent a masterpiece of human creative genius", "to exhibit an important interchange of human values, over a span of time or within a cultural area of the world, on developments in architecture or technology, monumental arts, town-planning or landscape design", and "to be directly or tangibly associated with events or living traditions, with ideas, or with beliefs, with artistic and literary works of outstanding universal significance".
  • Headless Buddha? Some parts of the Buddha statues and reliefs have been stolen as collector items and shipped abroad. Some of those stolen artifacts are now displayed in museums in London and Amsterdam.  
  • Regardless of arm length, try to touch the hand of the Buddha statue inside one of the stupas. It is believed that anyone who succeeded the task would have their wishes granted. 

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