Menjangan Island: Underwater Heaven Just a Step Away from Paradise Island

Sang Hyang Ganesha stood on the verge of the Menjangan Island, viewed from Temple Point diving site. Ganesha is a Hindu God of wisdom, knowledge and new beginnings, depicted with four arms and elephant head.  

Menjangan Island is located north-west of the famous paradise island, Bali. Way less crowded than Bali, the small island offers breathtaking well-preserved underwater view. Even if you don't know how to swim, you won't be able to resist the charm of clear shallow water and bright corals.

Don't be too surprised to see a herd of wild deer swimming across 1,2 miles distance to find sanctuary in the uninhabited island. Hence, the island is called "Pulau Menjangan" (pulau = island; menjangan = deer). The only man-made structures on the island are  the 8 Hindu temples, called Pura or Pure in local language, where several Hindu monks stay.

The name "Menjangan" derived from these swimmer creature with antlers.

You can dock to the island, enjoy the white sandy beach and off for a trekking experience to observe the deer on the savanna, and also various species of birds. Another way of touring the island is through a religious trip, which the Balinese Hindu called Tirta Yatra (tirta = water; yatra = pilgrimage). The pilgrimage covers eight Hindu temples with a hint of Buddhism, which includes:

1. Pura Segara Giri Darma Kencana  
2. Pura Taman / Beji
3. Pesraman Agung Brahma Ireng / Ratu Patih Keboiwa 
4. Pagoda Agung Dewi Kwan Im 
5. Pendopo Ida Bhatara Dalem Gajah Mada / Hyang Wisnu Murti
6. Pura Sang Hyang Siwa Pasupati
7. Pelinggih Ida Bhatara Lingsir Watu Renggong
8. Pelinggih Sang Hyang Ganesha

But it doesn't matter if you choose not to step on the the island at all, and just spend the whole day (or two) on the water. After all, this place is actually the first iconic diving spot in Bali. Back in 1978, the Indonesian Navy sponsored a get-together of Indonesia’s main diving clubs, which led to the establishment of Menjangan as the premier international dive spot. 

Menjangan is known as the best wall diving spot in Bali. The island is surrounded by coral reef and characterized by deep drop offs of approximately 60 meters with complex rock formations. Large and small underwater caves are festooned with sponge and soft corals, inhabited by large groupers, moray eels,young snappers, batfish, and puffer fish. 

The sea beds are also rich in large barrel sponges and enormous vibrant sea fans. Given the depth, the moderate flow of currents and its protection from strong winds, it is also common to see tuna, shoals of jack-fish, clown fish, angelfish, sea turtles, and also sharks! Don't worry though, there is no report of any incident involving shark in the area. Sharks are indicators of a healthy marine ecosystem.

Here are some of the spectacular diving or snorkeling spots around Menjangan Island:

Post I
Here is the main warden station with jetty, one of only three points where you can actually get ashore Menjangan Island. The area has a sandy bottom sloping from 16-18 meters down into the deep, an interesting spot for snorkeling. Lots of small fish dwell around the corals, and occasionally Manta Ray or sea eel emerges from the sand floor.

Cave Point
The spot is a very scenic wall, going in and out, with steep sided gullies and small caves. The wall runs deep on this side of the island. Barracuda, surgeons, snapper, grouper are usually hiding in the many crevasses an over hangs. On rainy season, Manta Rays and sharks may also pass by. This is also a great snorkeling spot to enjoy the vibrant corals at the edge of the drop off.

Post II
This is the most popular spot for snorkeling trips, which also offers a short jetty to drop off by the beach. The beach is a small exposed bay that literally slices a narrow chunk out of the wall that dominates this side of the island. You can walk in and swim through the gully along the walls, to a very steep drop off.

Bat Cave
"Quick, to the Bat Cave!" That's what Batman might have said if he ever visit Menjangan Island. Inside the above water caves running along the wall, hundreds of bats sleep in. The Bat Cave which can only be reached from under water offers a shear drop off with some hairy drift diving when the current is running. Though it is possible to start here, most divers start at Post II and drifting round the island. This place is a good spot to look for sharks and other big fish.

Temple Point
Temple Point starts at the feet of a huge Ganesha statue on top a cliff. With the depth of 5-30 meters and mild current, you can enjoy the sight of big sea fan (gorgonian) along with scorpion fish and frog fish. If you are lucky, you can also spot whale sharks around.

Coral Garden
As the name suggest, the beautiful coral garden lies at the depth of 5 - 20 meters. Various hard and soft coral blocks are home of the flat worms, crustaceans, anemones, moray eels, scorpion fish, and lion fish. Typical coral reef fish also includes clown fish, emperor fish, glass fish, and banner fish. Larger sea creatures like tuna, stingrays, sharks, and sea turtles might also passed by.

Anchor Wreck
The ship wreck can be found at the depth of 45 meters. It was an old wooden Dutch ship, sunk during the colonial era while transporting slaves to Batavia (now Jakarta). The ship also brought ceramics and glass cargo. Now, it sits quietly on the sea floor and colonized by soft coral. Sea turtles and sharks occasionally pops out from the wreck!

Eel Garden
Large colony of eels dwells on the western point of Menjangan, in a shallow diving area with some dazzling white sand. The dive starts from a 40 meters wall decorated with beautiful sea fans, topped off with the reef to a stretch of white sand.

Almost all of the diving spot except the Eel Garden are suitable for beginner level diver. At several spots, snorkeling will give the taste of diving due to the clear water with the visibility up to 30 meters.  

There is absolutely no shops, restaurant, or lodging options on Menjangan Island itself. But with Bali, the tourism capital, located just a step away, you can travel with such convenience. Just bring yourself! Diving or snorkeling gears, as well as other supplies needed can be prepared before boarding the boat from mainland Bali ports of Banyu Wedang or Labuhan Lalang.

Getting there...

Map of Indonesia, that's Bali Province highlighted in red. 

There is no available accommodation on the Menjangan Island, and there won't be any as the island is a part of the West Bali National Park Conservation Area. I haven't heard of beach camping option on the island either, since electricity is available solely for the purpose of religious activities at the temples.

Nearest hotels and other accommodations can be found on the north western coast of Bali, near the West Bali National park and the Pemuteran area. Two of the most popular establishments are The M*njangan and M*mpi Menjangan Resort. Plenty of homestay options are available in the Pemuteran area.

It is really far from Bali's Ngurah Rai Airport (DPS), so please make sure that you arrange airport pick-up & drop-off service if you choose to stay in north-western coast of Bali. It is about 150 km away from Kuta area, and it took around 3 hours drive.

The main option to get to Menjangan Island is using a local boat run by the West Bali National Park from a small harbor called Labuhan Lalang. You can also take boats from the small jetty in Banyuwedang Bay. Diving and snorkeling gears are available for rents at these harbor (US$ 7 for snorkeling gears and US$ 20 for diving gears). Last time I went, they haven't sell disposable underwater camera, so please prepare your own waterproof device. You may also need to pack your lunch from the restaurant, before boarding the boat.

Most hotels in north-western coast of Bali would provide Menjangan diving / snorkeling tour services. You can also arrange the tour package with local travel agents, which usually costs about US$140 (including car transfers, boat trip, guide, and lunch). You can also contact the National Park

West Bali National Park
Phone: +62 365 61060 | Email: tnbb@telkom.net
Website: www.tnbalibarat.com (seems not available for the time being, though)

Alternatively you can arrange the trip to Menjangan as a Bali round-trip experience, hiring a car and full-time driver/guide service for a few days. Ask for a pick-up at the airport (or anywhere in Kuta-Seminyak-Nusa Dua area) in the morning, and take the route up north via Denpasar - Sanur Tampaksiring - Batur Lake - Kintamani - Lovina Beach. It is a very scenic route, but you can also drop by at several tourist attraction before spending the night at a lodging option at Lovina area (the option to tip a guide at each tourist attraction is neat enough when you speak English).

For the trip back to the airport (or Kuta-Seminyak-Nusa Dua area) later, take another route via Singaraja - Beratan Lake - Bedugul - Tanah Lot. Well, of course you can switch the route another way around. The point is to go around as much place as conveniently possible.

Lovina is famous for its dolphins, which show up early at the crack of dawn. Dolphin watching is a common activity, offered by local small boat owners. From Lovina to Banyu Wedang Bay, it would took 55 km drive of about an hour. It is best to board the boat at around 8 or 9 AM.

I do have a particular name to recommend as snorkeling/diving guide in Menjangan, Bli Dika (Phone: +62 812 3833 0487). He will wait and set the preparation at Banyu Wedang Bay, before going underwater Menjangan. Ask his advice for details of your trip and requirements, and book in advance because he is so busy ^_^ Once underwater, ask him for a ring bubble performance!

The boat trip to Menjangan cost about US$ 55, which can accommodate up to 8 persons + gears. Normally, the boat ride to the first diving spot around Menjangan Island only takes 30-40 minutes. Admission fee to enter the National Park area is charged at US$ 2 per person, to be paid before boarding. Your packed lunch can be enjoyed in between diving sessions, which supposed to end before sunset.

I'd say all those efforts and money spent really worth well! The only pain left would probably be sunburn scars...          

Word has it that...

• Being in the tropical climate region, you can plunge in Menjangan water at any time of the year. However, it is best to avoid the rain on monsoon. So, the best time to visit is during the dry season between April to November. Unless you specifically want to do shark spotting that is!
• There is another diving site called Menjangan Island in Karimun Jawa, Central Java Province. Well actually there are two, Menjangan Kecil and Menjangan Besar. But, the one in Bali really earned its title as a premier international diving spot. Well preserved and well managed.  

Borobudur: a Masterpiece of Human Creative Genius

Borobudur is an ancient Buddhist stone temple (candi in Indonesian terms), located in Magelang, Central Java Province. The grand step pyramid structure rises 35 meters high, on a 123 x 123 meters base platform. It was built on the 8th century (AD/CE) using two million blocks of volcanic stones (approximately 55,000 cubic meters) without mortar.

However, it has withstand the test of time. It has survived from stormy rain showers, volcanic eruptions, and even bombs from terrorist attack back in 1985.

Since the original architect, Gunadharma, built the temple during the reign of Sailendra Dynasty, it has undergone several restorations projects. Hidden under the deep forest, covered with volcanic ashes, and abandoned for few centuries, Borobudur was re-discovered during the colonial era in 1814. The British Governor General, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, was the one who called it Borobudur in his official report. Restoration efforts was continued during the Dutch colonial era. However, massive works only took place long after Indonesia gain independence, and "Save Borobudur" campaign was launched in 1968 with the support of UNESCO. After the US$ 7 million renovation was completed, UNESCO listed Borobudur as a World Heritage Site in 1991.

After the eruption of Mount Merapi in 2010, rehabilitation efforts were made to restore the drainage system, which had been clogged by slurry after the rain. Volunteers from all across the world also participated to clean up Borobudur from volcanic ash. And again, in 2014 a nearby Mount Kelud erupted. Borobudur were then closed for visitor for about 2 weeks, to dust-off the volcanic ash.

Rosemarie (65), a volunteer from New Zealand, dusting off volcanic ash from  Mount Kelud Eruption affecting Borobudur. Magelang, Central Java Province - February 17, 2014. Photo credit: Antara.

Now, we can visit and conduct the temple pilgrimage comfortably. Enter through the eastern gate, and walk from the first level in a clockwise direction to observe the story beautifully carved on the relief panels. Follow through the extensive system of stairways and corridors, ascending to the the three level which symbolizes Buddhist cosmology, Kamadhatu (world with desires) - Rupadhatu (materialistic world) - Arupadhatu (non-materialistic world).

At the Kamadhatu level, the 160 reliefs depict scenes of Karmawibhangga Sutra, the law of cause and effect, illustrating the human behavior of desire.

At the Rupadhatu level, the 1,300 reliefs depict scenes from Sanskrit manuscripts of Lalitawistara (story of Prince Siddharta and birth of Buddha), Jataka-Awadana (stories of Buddha's previous life and other legendary persons), and Gandhawyuha (Sudhana's search of the ultimate truth). We can also observe Buddha statues carved in five different hand positions, representing Aksobhya (east bound - calling the earth to witness), Ratnasambhawa (south bound - benevolence), Amitabha (west bound - concentration and meditation), Amoghasiddi (north bound - courage), and Vairochana (zenith - reasoning and virtue).

At the Arupadhatu level, Buddha Dharmachakra Vairochana statues are seated inside perforated stupas on three circular platforms. The first circular platform has 32 stupas, 24 on the second, and 16 on the third, which adds up to 72 in total. A main dome is located at the center of the top platform.

2011 Vesak celebration at Borobudur attended by thousands.
Magelang, Central Java Province - May 17, 2011.  Photo credit: viva.co.id 

Once a year, during the full moon in May or June, Buddhists in Indonesia celebrate Vesak at the grand temple of Borobudur. It is a religious holiday commemorating the birth, death, and the enlightenment of Buddha.

From afar, a majestic view inspires a very popular wall decoration. Early at dawn, Borobudur slowly shows its silhouette floating above the clouds. Take a front row seat for the breathtaking scene, from a nearby spot called Borobudur Nirwana Sunrise. Just drive and go for a short hiking trip before sunrise to Punthuk Setumbu, a hill located 5 km from Borobudur. Trust me, it's worth the effort of waking up really early in the morning (just hope for a clear sky though). April to September would be the most convenient time to avoid monsoon, because you don't want the rain to get in your way... Afterwards, you can go downhill, grab a breakfast, then wait at Borobudur admission gate which opens daily at 6 AM.

That being said, the best time to visit Borobudur is in the morning to catch sunrise. Of course, that is debatable especially when a night festival is held on certain occasion. But hey, Affandi (1907-1990), the Indonesian legendary painter, chose to frame the morning view of Borobudur on his canvas!

"Borobudur in the Morning" by Affandi, 1983.

Getting there...

Map of Indonesia, that's Central Java Province highlighted in red.

Various lodging options are available in the nearest city of  Jogja and Solo, or even in Magelang. There is also the M*nohara Hotel within the Borobudur complex, and few others nearby. Both Jogja's Adisucipto Airport (JOG) and Solo's Adisumarmo Airport (SOC) scheduled direct international flights to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Flights from/to Jakarta are scheduled several times a day, every day.  

Most hotels in Jogja, Solo, and Magelang would provide Borobudur tour services. You can also arrange the tour with local travel agents.

A more flexible option is to rent a car, with or without driver. Car rents are very affordable, with little paperwork required. Browse online for car rental services, and make the reservation in advance. You can hire a tour guide speaking the language you understand once you have arrived on site.

Admission fee is IDR 12.500 (child) / IDR 30.000 (adult) for Indonesian citizen; or USD 10 (child) / USD 20 (adult) for foreign citizen. Special package options are available if you also want to visit Prambanan and Ratu Boko in the same day. Check out their web sites for updates.

Address:
Jl. Badrawati, Kecamatan Borobudur, Kabupaten Magelang
Provinsi Jawa Tengah, INDONESIA
-7.607875, 110.203717

Phone: +62 274 496 402 | Email: info@borobudurpark.co.id 

Website: www.borobudurpark.co.id

Word has it that...

• Borobudur is one of the Seven Wonders of the World.
• Borobudur is listed by UNESCO under Cultural criteria "to represent a masterpiece of human creative genius", "to exhibit an important interchange of human values, over a span of time or within a cultural area of the world, on developments in architecture or technology, monumental arts, town-planning or landscape design", and "to be directly or tangibly associated with events or living traditions, with ideas, or with beliefs, with artistic and literary works of outstanding universal significance".
• Headless Buddha? Some parts of the Buddha statues and reliefs have been stolen as collector items and shipped abroad. Some of those stolen artifacts are now displayed in museums in London and Amsterdam.  
• Regardless of arm length, try to touch the hand of the Buddha statue inside one of the stupas. It is believed that anyone who succeeded the task would have their wishes granted.