Kolak: Popular Sweet Dish of the Month

Kolak is an Indonesian version of compote with coconut milk. The main ingredients are plantains (the less sweet variant of banana, commonly eaten cooked only), cassava or sweet potato, palm sugar, and coconut milk. Additional spices may enrich the aroma, and the recipe may vary without altering the main taste of sweetness.

The sweet dish is very popular, especially during the Moslem's Ramadhan fasting month. Some might say it is a dessert, but it is often served as appetizer (tajil) for the fasting break after skipping meals and drinks for approximately 12 hours. For the whole month, Kolak can be easily found on street stalls during the afternoon. It is also a common dish cooked in households.

However, not so many people know the history or where the root of the word "Kolak" comes from. So here is a version of the story...

Kolak can be traced back to the spread of Islam in Java island, around the 14th century AD/CE. Moslem preachers use simple things to relate the religious teachings, including food. So, Kolak is said to derived from the word "Khalik" which means God the creator of heaven and earth. Eating the dish is supposed to remind people to get closer to God.

Two of the main ingredients also have a religious meaning. The most common type of banana used is called "pisang kepok" in local language. The word "kepok" (the variant of banana) sounds similar to the word "kapok" which means to give up on sin or to learn one's lesson. The other ingredient is cassava or sweet potato, which in local language called "telo pendem". "Pendem" refers to the cassava which is found buried underground, not on the open branches. Therefore, the two ingredients signify the meaning of burying the sins and never again to repeat the same mistakes.

But don't worry... You don't have to do the fasting, and you don't even have to be a Moslem to have a taste of Kolak. Everyone with any religious background (even atheists) can grab a bite. Well, maybe it's a no-no for someone with diabetes.

Enough with the history lesson. Let's start cooking!

Cooking the dish...

Ingredients:

• 8 pcs of plantains / banana, peeled and bevel cut thickly in bite sizes
• 400 grams of sweet potato / yam, peeled and cut in bite sizes 
• 150 mL of condensed coconut milk diluted in 1 L of water (use 1 whole coconut for freshly squeezed coconut milk)
• 6 tbsp of palm sugar
• 6 tbsp of sugar
• a dash of salt
• 2 screwpine (pandan) leaves for aroma
• 1/4 tsp  of vanilla extract for aroma
• pinch of cinnamon powder for aroma
• a couple of cloves bud for aroma
• 100 grams of Arenga pinnata fruit (kolang-kaling)

(But really, the main ingredients are banana, sweet potato, coconut milk, and palm sugar. With just the four ingredients, you would make the dish qualified as Kolak.)

Directions:

• Boil the diluted coconut milk in a large pot over a medium-low heat.
• Toss in the sweet potato along with the sugar, palm sugar, and salt.
• Wait a while before tossing in the banana and Arenga pinnata fruit.
• Add the aromatic herbs and spices into the pot.
• Keep stirring to prevent over heating, until the sweet potato and banana become tender.
• Serve warm, or chill in the refrigerator for a few hours before serving. The recipe makes up to 10 servings.   

Menjangan Island: Underwater Heaven Just a Step Away from Paradise Island

Sang Hyang Ganesha stood on the verge of the Menjangan Island, viewed from Temple Point diving site. Ganesha is a Hindu God of wisdom, knowledge and new beginnings, depicted with four arms and elephant head.  

Menjangan Island is located north-west of the famous paradise island, Bali. Way less crowded than Bali, the small island offers breathtaking well-preserved underwater view. Even if you don't know how to swim, you won't be able to resist the charm of clear shallow water and bright corals.

Don't be too surprised to see a herd of wild deer swimming across 1,2 miles distance to find sanctuary in the uninhabited island. Hence, the island is called "Pulau Menjangan" (pulau = island; menjangan = deer). The only man-made structures on the island are  the 8 Hindu temples, called Pura or Pure in local language, where several Hindu monks stay.

The name "Menjangan" derived from these swimmer creature with antlers.

You can dock to the island, enjoy the white sandy beach and off for a trekking experience to observe the deer on the savanna, and also various species of birds. Another way of touring the island is through a religious trip, which the Balinese Hindu called Tirta Yatra (tirta = water; yatra = pilgrimage). The pilgrimage covers eight Hindu temples with a hint of Buddhism, which includes:

1. Pura Segara Giri Darma Kencana  
2. Pura Taman / Beji
3. Pesraman Agung Brahma Ireng / Ratu Patih Keboiwa 
4. Pagoda Agung Dewi Kwan Im 
5. Pendopo Ida Bhatara Dalem Gajah Mada / Hyang Wisnu Murti
6. Pura Sang Hyang Siwa Pasupati
7. Pelinggih Ida Bhatara Lingsir Watu Renggong
8. Pelinggih Sang Hyang Ganesha

But it doesn't matter if you choose not to step on the the island at all, and just spend the whole day (or two) on the water. After all, this place is actually the first iconic diving spot in Bali. Back in 1978, the Indonesian Navy sponsored a get-together of Indonesia’s main diving clubs, which led to the establishment of Menjangan as the premier international dive spot. 

Menjangan is known as the best wall diving spot in Bali. The island is surrounded by coral reef and characterized by deep drop offs of approximately 60 meters with complex rock formations. Large and small underwater caves are festooned with sponge and soft corals, inhabited by large groupers, moray eels,young snappers, batfish, and puffer fish. 

The sea beds are also rich in large barrel sponges and enormous vibrant sea fans. Given the depth, the moderate flow of currents and its protection from strong winds, it is also common to see tuna, shoals of jack-fish, clown fish, angelfish, sea turtles, and also sharks! Don't worry though, there is no report of any incident involving shark in the area. Sharks are indicators of a healthy marine ecosystem.

Here are some of the spectacular diving or snorkeling spots around Menjangan Island:

Post I
Here is the main warden station with jetty, one of only three points where you can actually get ashore Menjangan Island. The area has a sandy bottom sloping from 16-18 meters down into the deep, an interesting spot for snorkeling. Lots of small fish dwell around the corals, and occasionally Manta Ray or sea eel emerges from the sand floor.

Cave Point
The spot is a very scenic wall, going in and out, with steep sided gullies and small caves. The wall runs deep on this side of the island. Barracuda, surgeons, snapper, grouper are usually hiding in the many crevasses an over hangs. On rainy season, Manta Rays and sharks may also pass by. This is also a great snorkeling spot to enjoy the vibrant corals at the edge of the drop off.

Post II
This is the most popular spot for snorkeling trips, which also offers a short jetty to drop off by the beach. The beach is a small exposed bay that literally slices a narrow chunk out of the wall that dominates this side of the island. You can walk in and swim through the gully along the walls, to a very steep drop off.

Bat Cave
"Quick, to the Bat Cave!" That's what Batman might have said if he ever visit Menjangan Island. Inside the above water caves running along the wall, hundreds of bats sleep in. The Bat Cave which can only be reached from under water offers a shear drop off with some hairy drift diving when the current is running. Though it is possible to start here, most divers start at Post II and drifting round the island. This place is a good spot to look for sharks and other big fish.

Temple Point
Temple Point starts at the feet of a huge Ganesha statue on top a cliff. With the depth of 5-30 meters and mild current, you can enjoy the sight of big sea fan (gorgonian) along with scorpion fish and frog fish. If you are lucky, you can also spot whale sharks around.

Coral Garden
As the name suggest, the beautiful coral garden lies at the depth of 5 - 20 meters. Various hard and soft coral blocks are home of the flat worms, crustaceans, anemones, moray eels, scorpion fish, and lion fish. Typical coral reef fish also includes clown fish, emperor fish, glass fish, and banner fish. Larger sea creatures like tuna, stingrays, sharks, and sea turtles might also passed by.

Anchor Wreck
The ship wreck can be found at the depth of 45 meters. It was an old wooden Dutch ship, sunk during the colonial era while transporting slaves to Batavia (now Jakarta). The ship also brought ceramics and glass cargo. Now, it sits quietly on the sea floor and colonized by soft coral. Sea turtles and sharks occasionally pops out from the wreck!

Eel Garden
Large colony of eels dwells on the western point of Menjangan, in a shallow diving area with some dazzling white sand. The dive starts from a 40 meters wall decorated with beautiful sea fans, topped off with the reef to a stretch of white sand.

Almost all of the diving spot except the Eel Garden are suitable for beginner level diver. At several spots, snorkeling will give the taste of diving due to the clear water with the visibility up to 30 meters.  

There is absolutely no shops, restaurant, or lodging options on Menjangan Island itself. But with Bali, the tourism capital, located just a step away, you can travel with such convenience. Just bring yourself! Diving or snorkeling gears, as well as other supplies needed can be prepared before boarding the boat from mainland Bali ports of Banyu Wedang or Labuhan Lalang.

Getting there...

Map of Indonesia, that's Bali Province highlighted in red. 

There is no available accommodation on the Menjangan Island, and there won't be any as the island is a part of the West Bali National Park Conservation Area. I haven't heard of beach camping option on the island either, since electricity is available solely for the purpose of religious activities at the temples.

Nearest hotels and other accommodations can be found on the north western coast of Bali, near the West Bali National park and the Pemuteran area. Two of the most popular establishments are The M*njangan and M*mpi Menjangan Resort. Plenty of homestay options are available in the Pemuteran area.

It is really far from Bali's Ngurah Rai Airport (DPS), so please make sure that you arrange airport pick-up & drop-off service if you choose to stay in north-western coast of Bali. It is about 150 km away from Kuta area, and it took around 3 hours drive.

The main option to get to Menjangan Island is using a local boat run by the West Bali National Park from a small harbor called Labuhan Lalang. You can also take boats from the small jetty in Banyuwedang Bay. Diving and snorkeling gears are available for rents at these harbor (US$ 7 for snorkeling gears and US$ 20 for diving gears). Last time I went, they haven't sell disposable underwater camera, so please prepare your own waterproof device. You may also need to pack your lunch from the restaurant, before boarding the boat.

Most hotels in north-western coast of Bali would provide Menjangan diving / snorkeling tour services. You can also arrange the tour package with local travel agents, which usually costs about US$140 (including car transfers, boat trip, guide, and lunch). You can also contact the National Park

West Bali National Park
Phone: +62 365 61060 | Email: tnbb@telkom.net
Website: www.tnbalibarat.com (seems not available for the time being, though)

Alternatively you can arrange the trip to Menjangan as a Bali round-trip experience, hiring a car and full-time driver/guide service for a few days. Ask for a pick-up at the airport (or anywhere in Kuta-Seminyak-Nusa Dua area) in the morning, and take the route up north via Denpasar - Sanur Tampaksiring - Batur Lake - Kintamani - Lovina Beach. It is a very scenic route, but you can also drop by at several tourist attraction before spending the night at a lodging option at Lovina area (the option to tip a guide at each tourist attraction is neat enough when you speak English).

For the trip back to the airport (or Kuta-Seminyak-Nusa Dua area) later, take another route via Singaraja - Beratan Lake - Bedugul - Tanah Lot. Well, of course you can switch the route another way around. The point is to go around as much place as conveniently possible.

Lovina is famous for its dolphins, which show up early at the crack of dawn. Dolphin watching is a common activity, offered by local small boat owners. From Lovina to Banyu Wedang Bay, it would took 55 km drive of about an hour. It is best to board the boat at around 8 or 9 AM.

I do have a particular name to recommend as snorkeling/diving guide in Menjangan, Bli Dika (Phone: +62 812 3833 0487). He will wait and set the preparation at Banyu Wedang Bay, before going underwater Menjangan. Ask his advice for details of your trip and requirements, and book in advance because he is so busy ^_^ Once underwater, ask him for a ring bubble performance!

The boat trip to Menjangan cost about US$ 55, which can accommodate up to 8 persons + gears. Normally, the boat ride to the first diving spot around Menjangan Island only takes 30-40 minutes. Admission fee to enter the National Park area is charged at US$ 2 per person, to be paid before boarding. Your packed lunch can be enjoyed in between diving sessions, which supposed to end before sunset.

I'd say all those efforts and money spent really worth well! The only pain left would probably be sunburn scars...          

Word has it that...

• Being in the tropical climate region, you can plunge in Menjangan water at any time of the year. However, it is best to avoid the rain on monsoon. So, the best time to visit is during the dry season between April to November. Unless you specifically want to do shark spotting that is!
• There is another diving site called Menjangan Island in Karimun Jawa, Central Java Province. Well actually there are two, Menjangan Kecil and Menjangan Besar. But, the one in Bali really earned its title as a premier international diving spot. Well preserved and well managed.  

Rumah Gadang: Beautifully Built Big House

Rumah Gadang at Taman Mini Indonesia Indah

Home is where the heart is, some might say. Well, these big houses don't serve merely as a residence for a large number of family, but also a hall for family meetings and various ceremonial activities. And Rumah Gadang literally means big house in Minangkabau, West Sumatra Province. Not only for its physical size, the grandeur also refers for its functionality.

Rumah Gadang is a traditional house that reflects the whole aspects of Minangkabau philosophy.The construction of a house is subject to specific regulations, laid down by the ancestors and formalized in adat. The construction and maintenance of a rumah gadang is the responsibility of ninik mamak, the elder male blood-relatives of the matrilineal descent group that owns and builds it. With their matrilineal culture, Rumah Gadang in passed down from mother to daughter.

Not every inch of land in West Sumatra is eligible as a building site of Rumah Gadang. The traditional house is considered sacred, and can only be build in several districts which have earned high status called nagari. Initially, Rumah Gadang could not also be build outside Minangkabau, despite the custom of rantau of which the men have to travel far to earn their living. Hence, people of Minangkabau living outside West Sumatra have to periodically return to their homeland, with the money they have earned remitted for the sake of their Rumah Gadang.

The biggest Rumah Gadang is Istana Basa Pagaruyuang. Istana basa itself means big castle, and Pagaruyuang or Pagaruyung refers to an old kingdom in West Sumatera.

Istana Basa Pagaruyuang at night 

The first thing that may catch our attention is the dramatic curved roof structure with multi-tiered, upswept gables of Rumah Gadang. Its roof finials are formed from thatch bound by decorative metal bindings and drawn into points said to resemble buffalo horns, as buffalo is the symbolic animal of Minangkabau. Hence, the Rumah Gadang in local terms are also called as rumah bagonjong,which means horn-spired roof house.

Rumah gadang is a long house, rectangular in plan. The house floor is set on wooden piles that can reach as high as 3 meters off the ground. It is largely constructed of wood, with an exception being the rear longitudinal wall which is a plain lattice bamboo woven. The roof is of a truss and cross-beam construction and is traditionally covered with thatch from the fiber of the sugar palm (ijuk).

Wooden walls, pillars, and ceilings of Rumah Gadang are embellished with colorful bas-relief carved wooden motifs that reflects their philosophy of alam takambang jadi guru (nature is our teacher).
There are 94 different motifs identified, of which 37 refer to flora, 28  refer to fauna, and 29 refer to humans and their activities or behavior.

Rumah Tenun Pusako Pandai Sikek

The elements of a Rumah Gadang includes:

• gonjong, hornlike roof structure
• singkok, triangular wall under the ends of gonjong
• pereng, shelf under the singkok
• anjuang, raised floor at the end of one style of rumah gadang
• dindiang ari, the walls on the side elevations
• dindiang tapi, the walls on the front and back elevations
• papan banyak, front facade
• papan sakapiang, a shelf or middle band on the periphery of the house
• salangko, wall enclosing space under a house that has been built on stilts

The pillars of the ideal Rumah Gadang are arranged in five rows which run the length of the house. These rows divide the interior into four long spaces called lanjar. The lanjar at the rear of the house is divided into bedrooms. Rumah Gadang must have odd numbers of room, with 5 as minimum number and 9 as the the ideal number. The other lanjar are used as a common area, called the labuah gajah (elephant road).

While each married woman gets to stay with her husband in a designated room, old women and children sleep in a big room near the kitchen. Young maidens sleep in a room on the other end of the house. Adolescent boys traditionally live in the surau, a small mosque built near Rumah Gadang. 

Cooking and storage areas are often in separate buildings. A couple of rangkiang (rice barns) also placed in front of the house.

Rumah Gadang Sungai Baringin Payakumbuah

While most Rumah Gadang actually functions as residential, some are open for public. There is even one available in the capital city of Jakarta. You can visit one (or all) of the following:


Rumah Gadang at West Sumatra Pavillion - Taman Mini Indonesia Indah
Jl. Raya Taman Mini, Jakarta Timur, Jakarta Province (Phone: +62 21 87792078)

-6.3027755, 106.8946458

Istano Basa Pagaruyuang
Batusangkar, Tanah Datar Regency, West Sumatra Province 

-0.4711641, 100.6222638

Rumah Tenun Pusako Pandai Sikek 

Sepuluh Kota, Tanah Datar Regency, West Sumatra Province (Phone: +62 752 498193)
-0.40389, 100.39494


Rumah Pusako Sungai Baringin
Sungai Baringin, Payakumbuh, West Sumatra Province

Where it comes from...

Map of Indonesia, that's West Sumatra Province highlighted in red

Toraja Coffee: a Rich Taste of the Highlanders

What's a highlander good at? Sword fighting? Nah, that's Christopher Lambert (1957-...) in his old movie back in the late 80's, depicting an immortal Scottish Highland warrior.

In South Sulawesi Province, Indonesia, the highlanders of Tana Toraja prefer a peaceful way of life. And among others, they are good at cultivating Coffea arabica. The rich taste of that black liquid called Toraja coffee is well known all over the world.

Toraja coffee tends to have a relatively low-toned yet vibrant acidity. Among arabica coffee beans, those cultivated in Toraja has a very distinguished personality, in terms of its full bodied taste paired with caramelized and unique aroma. It generally display nutty or warm spice notes, like cinnamon or cardamom. It also gives a crisp and clean aftertaste.

Such distinct coffee flavor owes to the earth characteristic and the other vegetation of Tana Toraja. The trees are commonly grown at 1,100 - 1,500 meters above sea level, while the premium ones are cultivated at 1,600 - 1,800 meters above sea level.

However, most coffee plantations in Toraja are small-scale family farms, with only about 5% of total production cropped from seven larger estates. Coffee shrubs are planted near their houses, which provides supplemental income.

Each household processes their own coffee after harvesting. Traditional and manual methods are still applied. Coffee cherry pulping process is done with small machine, or simply by crushing them with a board. Fermentation process is done in buckets or bags for a day, to break down the fruity mucilage layer, and then washed and stored in clean water buckets. The parchment coffee is then dried under the sun for a few hours, before farmer can sell them to collector during market day.

Local farmer drying coffee beans, with the background of tongkonan (Toraja's traditional house). 

The green coffee bean then delivered to a larger mill. It can go straight to the wet-hulling process, or further dried under the sun to reduce the moist before hulling.When the hulling, grading, and sorting process are done, the coffee beans are packed to be shipped across the globe.

Now, the roasting process can be done somewhere in Seattle or anywhere else in the world. Some say that the best flavor from Toraja coffee beans will come out after roasting them just up to the 2nd crack, when the brown-greenish color still visible.

As for the brewing, any kind of methods will do just fine. And, if you prefer to add stuffs to your black coffee, you might as well experiment with the rich taste base of Toraja coffee.

Where it comes from...

Map of Indonesia, that's South Sulawesi Province highlighted in red.

Tana Toraja is a Regency in South Sulawesi Province, Indonesia. The mountainous region is 300 km away from Makassar, the province's capital. Tana Toraja means Land of Toraja. And, the word Toraja itself derived from to-riaja, local term for people of the highland.

There is no proper literature explaining how coffee seeds first arrived in Tana Toraja, and when did the local inhabitants start cultivating coffee. However, it was the Dutch colonial government who discovered the fertile soil for coffee in the southern part of Sulawesi, and establishing a 300 hectares coffee plantation under the name of Kalosi Celebes Coffee (Celebes is an old name of Sulawesi).

The coffee plantation business was abandoned during the war for Indonesian independence. And after the establishment of the Republic in 1945, the new nation-state was incapable to boost the business back.

An old Japan telephone card designed to promote Toraja coffee, sold on e-bay as collector's item.

The re-birth of Toraja coffee industry was marked in 1973, when a Japanese coffee company explored the region and observed the remaining of Dutch colonial era coffee plantation.The Japanese investors help building the necessary infrastructure for the Toraja coffee to be marketed worldwide (again). So, it is natural that Japanese may also took pride in Toraja coffee.

Ayam Rica-Rica: Manado's Hot and Spicy Chiken

Ayam Rica-Rica is a dish originated from Manado, in North Sulawesi Province. The main ingredient is of course Ayam (that means chicken in Bahasa Indonesia). The other main ingredient mentioned in its name is Rica (means spicy or chili in local language of Manado). There's no tomato involved in that bright red sauce...

Although only chili gets the honor of being in the title, almost every kind of spices and herbs in the kitchen also goes to the pan. The rich flavor wouldn't lie, when you went full scale on the long list of spices. A satisfying meal is complete with only a bowl of rice, and a (few) glass of water to overcome the hot and spicy sensation.

Cooking the dish...

As always, traditional recipes may vary from door-to-door. But here's my favorite recipe of Ayam Rica-Rica.

Ingredients:

• Whole chicken, chopped into 16 chunk.
• 10 red chili (may add accordingly)
• 10 Thai chili / rawit merah  (may add at your own risk...)
• 10 shallots
• 7 cloves of garlic
• 4 cm of ginger
• 2 stalk of lemongrass, bruised
• 5 kaffir lime leaves
• 2  pandan leaves
• 2 strands of kemangi leaves (basil would do)
• 2 tbsp of lemon / lime juice
• 2 tbsp of oil
• 500 mL of coconut water (plain water would do)
• 1 tbsp of sugar
• salt

Directions:

• Grind chili, shallot, garlic, and ginger into a paste. 
• Heat oil in a pan, sauté the spices paste with some sugar. Add the lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves.
• Add the chicken, stir well. Wait a little bit before pouring the coconut water and adding pandan leaves.
• Add lemon / lime juice and salt (another method suggest marinating the chicken in lemon / lime juice and salt in advance)
• Lower the heat and put a lid on the pan. Check on the water, until the chicken is done. Add kemangi leaves just before turning off the fire. (Alternatively, use a slow pressure cooker to make the chicken bones tender) 

Where it comes from...

Map of Indonesia, that's North Sulawesi Province highlighted in red.

Manado refers to an ethnic group originated from North Sulawesi Province. Manado people also refers themselves as Kawanua or Minahasa people. Manado is also the name of the capital city of North Sulawesi Province.

But don't worry, because we don't need to go to North Sulawesi for a taste of Ayam Rica-Rica. Plenty of restaurant in Jakarta offers special cuisine from Manado. Most dishes from Manado has spicy and fresh sour taste.

Borobudur: a Masterpiece of Human Creative Genius

Borobudur is an ancient Buddhist stone temple (candi in Indonesian terms), located in Magelang, Central Java Province. The grand step pyramid structure rises 35 meters high, on a 123 x 123 meters base platform. It was built on the 8th century (AD/CE) using two million blocks of volcanic stones (approximately 55,000 cubic meters) without mortar.

However, it has withstand the test of time. It has survived from stormy rain showers, volcanic eruptions, and even bombs from terrorist attack back in 1985.

Since the original architect, Gunadharma, built the temple during the reign of Sailendra Dynasty, it has undergone several restorations projects. Hidden under the deep forest, covered with volcanic ashes, and abandoned for few centuries, Borobudur was re-discovered during the colonial era in 1814. The British Governor General, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, was the one who called it Borobudur in his official report. Restoration efforts was continued during the Dutch colonial era. However, massive works only took place long after Indonesia gain independence, and "Save Borobudur" campaign was launched in 1968 with the support of UNESCO. After the US$ 7 million renovation was completed, UNESCO listed Borobudur as a World Heritage Site in 1991.

After the eruption of Mount Merapi in 2010, rehabilitation efforts were made to restore the drainage system, which had been clogged by slurry after the rain. Volunteers from all across the world also participated to clean up Borobudur from volcanic ash. And again, in 2014 a nearby Mount Kelud erupted. Borobudur were then closed for visitor for about 2 weeks, to dust-off the volcanic ash.

Rosemarie (65), a volunteer from New Zealand, dusting off volcanic ash from  Mount Kelud Eruption affecting Borobudur. Magelang, Central Java Province - February 17, 2014. Photo credit: Antara.

Now, we can visit and conduct the temple pilgrimage comfortably. Enter through the eastern gate, and walk from the first level in a clockwise direction to observe the story beautifully carved on the relief panels. Follow through the extensive system of stairways and corridors, ascending to the the three level which symbolizes Buddhist cosmology, Kamadhatu (world with desires) - Rupadhatu (materialistic world) - Arupadhatu (non-materialistic world).

At the Kamadhatu level, the 160 reliefs depict scenes of Karmawibhangga Sutra, the law of cause and effect, illustrating the human behavior of desire.

At the Rupadhatu level, the 1,300 reliefs depict scenes from Sanskrit manuscripts of Lalitawistara (story of Prince Siddharta and birth of Buddha), Jataka-Awadana (stories of Buddha's previous life and other legendary persons), and Gandhawyuha (Sudhana's search of the ultimate truth). We can also observe Buddha statues carved in five different hand positions, representing Aksobhya (east bound - calling the earth to witness), Ratnasambhawa (south bound - benevolence), Amitabha (west bound - concentration and meditation), Amoghasiddi (north bound - courage), and Vairochana (zenith - reasoning and virtue).

At the Arupadhatu level, Buddha Dharmachakra Vairochana statues are seated inside perforated stupas on three circular platforms. The first circular platform has 32 stupas, 24 on the second, and 16 on the third, which adds up to 72 in total. A main dome is located at the center of the top platform.

2011 Vesak celebration at Borobudur attended by thousands.
Magelang, Central Java Province - May 17, 2011.  Photo credit: viva.co.id 

Once a year, during the full moon in May or June, Buddhists in Indonesia celebrate Vesak at the grand temple of Borobudur. It is a religious holiday commemorating the birth, death, and the enlightenment of Buddha.

From afar, a majestic view inspires a very popular wall decoration. Early at dawn, Borobudur slowly shows its silhouette floating above the clouds. Take a front row seat for the breathtaking scene, from a nearby spot called Borobudur Nirwana Sunrise. Just drive and go for a short hiking trip before sunrise to Punthuk Setumbu, a hill located 5 km from Borobudur. Trust me, it's worth the effort of waking up really early in the morning (just hope for a clear sky though). April to September would be the most convenient time to avoid monsoon, because you don't want the rain to get in your way... Afterwards, you can go downhill, grab a breakfast, then wait at Borobudur admission gate which opens daily at 6 AM.

That being said, the best time to visit Borobudur is in the morning to catch sunrise. Of course, that is debatable especially when a night festival is held on certain occasion. But hey, Affandi (1907-1990), the Indonesian legendary painter, chose to frame the morning view of Borobudur on his canvas!

"Borobudur in the Morning" by Affandi, 1983.

Getting there...

Map of Indonesia, that's Central Java Province highlighted in red.

Various lodging options are available in the nearest city of  Jogja and Solo, or even in Magelang. There is also the M*nohara Hotel within the Borobudur complex, and few others nearby. Both Jogja's Adisucipto Airport (JOG) and Solo's Adisumarmo Airport (SOC) scheduled direct international flights to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Flights from/to Jakarta are scheduled several times a day, every day.  

Most hotels in Jogja, Solo, and Magelang would provide Borobudur tour services. You can also arrange the tour with local travel agents.

A more flexible option is to rent a car, with or without driver. Car rents are very affordable, with little paperwork required. Browse online for car rental services, and make the reservation in advance. You can hire a tour guide speaking the language you understand once you have arrived on site.

Admission fee is IDR 12.500 (child) / IDR 30.000 (adult) for Indonesian citizen; or USD 10 (child) / USD 20 (adult) for foreign citizen. Special package options are available if you also want to visit Prambanan and Ratu Boko in the same day. Check out their web sites for updates.

Address:
Jl. Badrawati, Kecamatan Borobudur, Kabupaten Magelang
Provinsi Jawa Tengah, INDONESIA
-7.607875, 110.203717

Phone: +62 274 496 402 | Email: info@borobudurpark.co.id 

Website: www.borobudurpark.co.id

Word has it that...

• Borobudur is one of the Seven Wonders of the World.
• Borobudur is listed by UNESCO under Cultural criteria "to represent a masterpiece of human creative genius", "to exhibit an important interchange of human values, over a span of time or within a cultural area of the world, on developments in architecture or technology, monumental arts, town-planning or landscape design", and "to be directly or tangibly associated with events or living traditions, with ideas, or with beliefs, with artistic and literary works of outstanding universal significance".
• Headless Buddha? Some parts of the Buddha statues and reliefs have been stolen as collector items and shipped abroad. Some of those stolen artifacts are now displayed in museums in London and Amsterdam.  
• Regardless of arm length, try to touch the hand of the Buddha statue inside one of the stupas. It is believed that anyone who succeeded the task would have their wishes granted. 

Solace of the Coconut Island

Tanah airku Indonesia (Indonesia, my homeland) Negeri elok amat kucinta (My dearly beloved beautiful country) Tanah tumpah darahku yang mulia (My glorious home country) Yang kupuja s'panjang masa (Let me adore you all the time) Tanah airku aman dan makmur (My safe and prosperous homeland) Pulau kelapa yang amat subur (The fertile coconut island) Pulau melati pujaan bangsa (The nation's adoration jasmine island) Sejak dulu kala (Since a long, long time ago) Melambai-lambai nyiur di pantai (The palm trees on the beach are waving) Berbisik-bisik raja k'lana (And the wind is whispering) Memuja pulau nan indah permai (Adoring the beautiful scenic island) Tanah airku Indonesia (Indonesia, my homeland)

Ismail Marzuki (1914-1958), a composer, poetically portrayed the beauty of Indonesia in the above song lyrics. The song title "Rayuan Pulau Kelapa" can be roughly translated as "Solace of the Coconut Island".

While there is an island off-coast Jakarta with the name of Coconut Island, the song title doesn't actually refer to any specific island. It just provide a general description of Indonesia as a tropical archipelago, with more than 17.000 islands.

So, this is a blog to share a a little bit of everything you might want to know about Indonesia, "Negeri Rayuan Pulau Kelapa"...

Word has it that...

• Despite being played daily as closing song on the national TV, many Indonesians might fail to name the song title.  
• The song is somehow very popular in Russia. The Russian translation is known as `Strana Ratnaya Indoneziya`.